Walk Into Canter
Question From Member
I recently attended your clinic at Galway with my thoroughbred Stormy and we've been working hard and moving forward.
I've been working a lot on canter departure from the walk as per your recommendation and I've found that he's getting overly excited about it and he is showing his hot blood the more I attempt it. In addition, he is still trotting 4 or 5 steps before he canters. This did not happen when you were on his back at the clinic. How did you get him to do it so nice?
I'm encouraged that he is starting to settle his canter and come onto his hauches really well with a soft rein after I let him canter free both directions. I feel really in control and he is soft in all the gaits. Not sure if there is enough information, but maybe you can shed some light on why I can't get the walk into canter.
I use my outside heel with pressure then increase and put the spur on when he doesn't start cantering. This causes him to trot fast then I pick my inside rein straight up (inline with my inside hip) with a little of a "pop" and he lifts up to canter. I do pretty much the same thing both directions; he feels pretty symmetrical to me. I let him canter about 5-8 strides then bring him back to the walk to try again and in this state he seems to think he is back in the starting gate and is going to try for an early lead. I loosen the reins a touch, give outside leg pressure and he BOUNDS forward and the canter starts out very disorganized.
On another note, I have been trying to teach him flying changes and he changes in front beautifully and calmly with sophisticated timing but doesn't change behind. I ask with my eyes and the same rein aid I described above and some outside leg. He'll cross canter a few strides then trot 2 steps and complete the change. I want to show soon is there any quick solution?
Look forward to hearing from you!
Submitted By Laura
Answer From Bernie
Some exercises will have a tendency to get T.B. horses hotter and if the canter departure from the walk is heating him up it would be better to ask for the canter from a slow trot. Walk, transition to slow trot, then ask quietly. Eventually as he gets it shorten the amount of trot steps. Try using your outside leg back a couple inches with pressure and give those aids when you are ready to ask for the canter together in a prompt but tack full fashion. Try avoiding the spur or even taking it off and trying some without. See if that chills him out a bit. Also try doing nothing with the inside rein and see if that makes any difference.
If he doesn't respond correctly to a walk canter departure he is not ready to teach the flying change. I would suggest getting him comfortable in counter canter and be specific about how you apply your aids. Going to the left for example on the right lead, your left leg (outside leg) is slightly behind the girth, your right leg (inside leg) is at the girth and he is slightly bent to the right. (just enough to see his right eye).
Practice simple changes for a while with him through the trot and shorten the amount of trot steps over time before asking for the change.
There is no quick solution for horses like him who don't have a natural easy change and you have to go through the process.
On EquestrianCoach.com you can find the process for his level in Fundamentals of Flatwork (Basic level). There are tips in the Fundamentals of Flatwork Intermediate and Advanced levels as well. Other coaches also have done topics on the site specific to Flying Changes.
I hope this helps.
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Supplementary Reins Other Than Draw Reins
Question From Member
Hi, Bernie. I think I've seen a horse and rider schooling flat work with an additional rein, or reins added, that went over the horse's pole, down the sides of the bridle, through the rings of the bit, and to the rider's hands. I think. Different from draw reins, they did not go beneath the horse's head/neck. Wish I'd gotten a better view. What's the purpose of that rein, and how does it differ from the purpose of "regular" draw reins? Thanks! This is really bugging me.
Submitted By User mkseverin
Answer From Bernie
The purpose of that type of artificial aid is in a way like draw reins. It enables the rider to obtain poll flexion, like a draw rein but in this case also lowers the neck as it puts pressure on the poll as well. Draw reins only pressure the mouth.
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How to build up my OTTB's confidence in the ring
Question From Member
My 7 year old OTTB seems to have issue in the ring with more than two horses. It's almost as if he gets overstimulated and loses focus. He has spun me off several times now when a horse is approaching him going the other way at anything other than a walk. Any ideas of things I can do to help him get through this? I eventually would like to show him, but he is going to have to learn how to be in traffic.
Submitted By Joanne
Answer From Bernie
I am familiar with this issue having had a few of them myself.
Introducing them to company in the ring is critical. Try and ship to a place or two that has less traffic than the schooling ring at the show. Or pick a schooling ring and time at the show that is less busy. Try and avoid crowded schooling rings. Be very alert and careful to avoid horses coming straight at your horse. Stay away from those situations as much as possible. Oncoming traffic avoidance.
The ones I have had have gotten better over time with this management. The problem subsided but still remained. Fresh horses are apt to do this more than tired horses so think about that as well.
If there is another quieter place to warm up for the show ring during the show find it.
At home you should be able to find times to ride where there are less horses until your horse gets more comfortable with this. They are legitimately afraid so punishment does not work, and only complicates the fear factor.
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A broken heart
Question From Member
Bernie, do you have any exercises that you could recommend to help fix a broken heart? I have a horse that a sponsor has given back to me after it had been with another rider who swam it through a oxer and a combination. He can and is jumping great at home in training but when I take him into the ring he literally shrinks and looses his confidence resulting in him stopping and being eliminated. I had formerly jumped him up to 150 but now I can't get him around a 140 track.
Submitted By Robert
Answer From Bernie
Robert it's hard to say what factors may be bothering your horse. I assume he has no soundness issues if he is training well at home. If he were stopping on grass at the show I would think he may have a confidence issue with the grass footing which some horses have. Proper caulking in this case helps some of them.
One of my best Grand Prix horses, "The Cardinal" was stopping and swimming in combinations prior to my acquiring him. He had a major confidence issue. I dropped him way down at the shows to a height he was comfortable with and inched my way up in levels. It was timely and expensive but paid off in the end.
I would suggest starting with this formula and see how you go. Make it fun and easy for him and it may pay off for you too.
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Supplementary reins other than draw reins
Question From Member
Hi, Bernie. I think I've seen a horse and rider schooling flat work with an additional rein, or reins added, that went over the horse's pole, down the sides of the bridle, through the rings of the bit, and to the rider's hands. I think. Different from draw reins, they did not go beneath the horse's head/neck. Wish I'd gotten a better view. What's the purpose of that rein, and how does it differ from the purpose of "regular" draw reins?
Thanks! This is really bugging me.
Submitted By Mary Kathryn
Answer From Bernie
The purpose of that type of artificial aid is in a way like draw reins. It enables the rider to obtain poll flexion, like a draw rein but in this case also lowers the neck as it puts pressure on the poll as well. Draw reins only pressure the mouth.
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Training a 5 year old warmblood
Question From Member
I just signed up for membership but I have a question about the training of my 5 year old IDSH/Oldenburg cross. I get conflicting information between my vet and trainers about how much jumping/flatwork he should be getting at 5. He is a 16.3 hand gelding jumper/equitation prospect. He has done A circuit 3' already and is still working on his changes which are coming along. He is my daughter's junior jumper and we plan to keep him always so he doesn't need to be brought along quickly for sale.He practically walks over 2'6. My vet is very conservative and thinks that he should only be jumping very low during his lessons with her and not three times a week but when he jumps under 3', he is very bored and careless and gets rails. What kind of weekly training program would the pros suggest for him? How much jumping, how high, how often, full courses vs. exercises, what kind of exercises etc. and how much flat work per day, per week vs jumping etc?
Submitted By Janice
Answer From Bernie
As your horse has already competed in the 3 ' division at A shows he seems far enough along to just maintain jumping fitness and schools over gymnastic combinations. I do agree with your vet that jumping most horses 3 times a week may be too much. I prefer to organize specific schools directed toward the horses individual needs and find that twice a week is plenty. Depending on their progress and show schedule there are some weeks that I won't jump.
Normally I like to incorporate cavaletties and very low jumps with my flatwork but if your horse is not respecting jumps lower than 3 ' I think it best to keep most of the jumping at least at the height he respects unless there is a soundness issue to be considered.
You might consider using heavier poles and cups that are not too shallow for him. Stay away from the plastic ones. Most of your week will be flatwork in his case.
We have many topics on the site describing flat exercises and jumping gymnastics for your horse.
I hope this helps.
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Exercises that can be used to fix cross cantering
Question From Member
I have a young warmblood who picks up a lead from the trot nicely, but on course gets disunited frequently. I have a feeling it's because I lean forward too much, but what else can I do? PS I love your website, as a rider who can't afford the traditional form of coaching, equestrian coach allows me access to top coaches without breaking my bank account. A bonus to watching videos and "doing it yourself" is that is encourages critical thinking.
Submitted By Claire
Answer From Bernie
There are topics already on the site that relate to improving this. For example Controls Of The Horse Part 1 - Rein Aids and Controls Of The Horse Part 2 - Leg Aids. I would also try the Fundamentals of Flatwork - Basic as your main topic to focus on as your young horse sounds very green.
I will assume your horse gets disunited mostly on corners when on course. If that is the case it's important that he understands the aids and you apply them correctly. Practice the counter canter daily and be definite about your aids. Once he understands the difference between the aids for counter canter and the inside lead your ability to prevent the x canter or swapping out behind will improve. Be very careful not to use the indirect rein diagonally in the corners as that will encourage him to swap out. At his stage I would avoid or be very careful of the indirect rein. As you approach the corner keep your outside leg slightly behind the girth, inside leg at the girth, and a very slight bend toward the inside with a inside direct rein. Work toward canter departures from the walk.
I would try sinking deeper to a light seat rather than a half seat as you approach the corners as you will be more effective with you leg aids in a slightly deeper seat.
I hope this is helpful.
Good luck with this and keep me posted!
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Swishing Tail Question
Question From Member
I've got a 7 yo Oldenburg that swishes his tail, especially when picking up the canter or doing a lead change, but he can do it around a course too. He has a fairly pleasant and quiet temperament but this seems to be a habit of his. He is a big lazy warmblood that needs to be ridden with spurs most of the time, and I am wondering if there is some leg and/or hand aids I need to adapt or change or develop that will help us to communicate better and perhaps get him to stop swishing his tail so much. Do you have any suggestions?
Submitted by user: smackey
Answer From Bernie
My guess is because your horse is admittedly a big lazy warmblood and has to be ridden with spurs most of the time, he is probably a bit dead and behind your leg. Horses like this often bait riders into using their leg and spur constantly. This results in making the horse more dead to your leg and irritating some, which may be your case. Horses must be trained to be lightly responsive to your leg/spur and react instantly.
You can find information on getting your horse in front of your leg in the following topics:
- All the Fundamentals of Flatwork - Basic, Intermediate, and Advanced
- Controls of the Horse, Part 2, Leg Aids
This information should help you train him to respond lightly to your leg aids. This should result in your having to use less leg and spur for your canter departures and flying changes thereby irritating him less.
I also would suggest not wearing your spur too high, thereby unintentionally irritating him.
Good luck with this and keep me posted.
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Question about cantering and swapping
Question From Member
I have a 7 year old thoroughbred gelding who is in training with a very good hunter trainer. He is just coming off a 6 month layup after injuring his superficial digital flexor tendon and we are taking it very slow. Before he was injured, we were just starting to introduce lead changes and only when we were jumping. It seems that the people who owned him before me tried to do lead changes with him as a 4 year old and got him very worried about changes. Once I bought him it took almost a year of mostly trotting to get him to relax and accept leg contact, but once we started cantering he kept swapping his lead when we were going to the left. I would bring him back to a walk and just ask for the right lead again. He even swapped on a circle. Eventually with a lot of patience, he stopped swapping and last year we were able to show him over small courses and as I said we were just getting ready to introduce some lead changes when he got injured.
He is sound now and our vet has cleared him to go back to work. He has been in work for about 3 months which we built up to gradually. We are just now starting to do light jumping and want to show him this spring. About 2 weeks ago he started the lead swapping again. He swaps the lead with me and my trainer riding but she is able to keep him from swapping better than I can by using her inside leg and bending him to the inside. To add more to the equation, when I canter to the left I have a harder time holding my position and feel stiff and crooked. I am sure he feels it too since he is so sensitive.
So my question to you is, are there any exercises you can give me that will help me fix my canter to the left, and what do you suggest we do about the lead swapping? I have been doing a lot of 2-point and my trainer says my position has improved to the left, but why do you think he suddenly started swapping again? Thanks for your help!
Submitted by user: #1Hunter
Answer From Bernie
This sounds like an old habit your horse has that is repeating itself now.
To answer your question about exercises that will "fix your canter position to the left" will be difficult without seeing a video of your riding.
Without seeing your position issue it's hard to give you specific exercises. What I can point you to are the topics on Equestriancoach titled "Building Blocks To A Great Position" parts 1-4. In these topics you will see exercises that will help you develop your position which should over time take care of your left canter issue. To be more specific I would need to see a video of the problem.
In regards to your second question for suggestions on how to minimize or stop the swapping leads, here are some ideas.
Growing up with all T.B. horses, I have had quite a few sensitive ones, especially to the leg aids. Some of the more sensitive ones just have a hard time tolerating even minor leg pressure and thus we often tend to appease them by riding with little to no leg.
That said, if thats the case your horse will be missing the proper leg aids that indicate what lead he is to keep. For example on the circle to the left your horse is slightly bent to the left, left leg at the girth and the right leg slightly behind the girth, with some degree of pressure. If he objects to the pressure of the right leg then he is missing an important aid and free to switch if he has that habit. That said, over time, if he will accept slightly more leg pressure (without spur of course) of the proper leg aids you will be able to indicate more clearly to him what lead is desired. Use the same aids (position) for canter departure and it would be an enormous help if you could practice the counter canter, especially going to the right and maintaining the left lead. Make sure your aids are correct. To the right on the left lead the horse is positioned (bent) slightly to the left, your left leg is at the girth and your right leg is slightly behind the girth maintaining a little pressure. The more your horse will accept some degree of leg and understand the proper and distinct leg positions for maintaining the leads, canter departures, and counter canter, along with proper bend, the more success you should have preventing the swap. With a sensitive horse this may take some time but obviously will be worth it.
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How do you school the water jump?
Question From Member
I have never jumped a water jump and expect to encounter one in the ring this year, what are some ways to school/pracice the water jump at home to make sure i am ready for the show ring this season?
Submitted by user: gdillonmt
Answer From Bernie
First of all you are on the right track wanting to practice the water at home prior to encountering one in the ring.
I would start by first introducing your horse to a small Liverpool with a single pole in the center about 2’6” without water. Most of the folks who sell jumps will be able to provide you with one and it’s beneficial to move them to different places in the ring. Start with the blue ones as I find the black ones are spookier. Later you might want to invest in a black one as well. Introduce your horse to it by walking parallel to it about 3” away. Do this from both sides and directions. I don’t like to face them as the horse has really no desire to get close to it and I don’t want them to back away from it. When they face it they should jump it. Also when they face it and kick sand on it only complicates the issue.
Once comfortable walking quietly by it go ahead and jump it.
For the next few schools move the Liverpool to different places and build both verticals and oxers over it. You can make it open face with the vertical at the back edge and reverse that with the vertical at the front edge as well.
Once that goes well try putting some water in it and then you may consider putting some blue color (Tidy Bowl) in the water. Later when things are going well try some darker blue color in the water as I find the dark color is more spooky.
Once you are happy with your horse over Liverpool’s the next step is to introduce your horse to a larger water jump. The ones in the ring usually vary in size from 8’ to 12’ plus and may have take off boxes or small walls on the front side. Some will have a pole and some will be just open water without a pole. Hopefully you will find a class that offers one with a pole in your first attempt at a show.
Jump builders will also have larger portable waters if you want to make the investment but this can get expensive. A blue tarp from home depot will serve as a less expensive alternative.
Start with a small-simulated water, a tarp folded to measure approximately 12 feet wide (slightly less to accommodate 12’ poles) by 6’. Place a small take off on the front side. This can be flower boxes, to start or a very small wall. Build a 2’9 or 3’ ramped oxer and center it over the water.
Get your horse comfortable with walking by it, again parallel to it, and then canter over it.
Once this is going well increase the size of the tarp to 9’ wide, still with the ramped oxer centered over it.
Ride this width with a bit more pace and enough leg off the ground that you encourage him to jump way out and not land on the tarp. That is the purpose of the ramped oxer. Jump it once without poles at 9’ and if that goes well do not jump it without poles again.
You may then move the water to another location and make it slightly larger. Once he jumps it well I would not jump it again. You want him comfortable with it but not bored with it to the point he wants to step on the tarp.
If you are clever you can also construct this tarp to hold water and introduce some color to it.
I think in this way you will give your horse a much better chance of a nice experience in the ring with water for the first time.
Remember to keep the oxer over the tarp, as it’s important that he does not land on it. There is no correction from the tarp and he will quickly lose interest in clearing it!
Leopoldo Palaccios has an interesting topic on Equestriancoach.com where he discusses the water jump.
Click Here to watch the video.
I will also be filming a topic on this subject later this year.
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